from staring down rhinos to swerving malaria

As a chronic over-worrier, I was incredibly nervous when my partner and I committed to a trip to South Africa. Although I was heading on what many people would consider a dream trip, I was apprehensive about my first-ever trip to the Southern Hemisphere.

In the months leading up to our great voyage, I did my very best to channel my nerves into excitement – isn’t that what all the therapists recommend, after all? – but alas, like most over-worriers will understand, trying to stop yourself from spiralling is like attempting to unscramble an egg.

I overprepared for everything. I took malaria tablets that I didn’t need to take, had no fewer than five vaccines and drank one cholera prevention drink.

A real highlight 

One 11-hour flight from Heathrow and a three-hour drive from Johannesburg airport later, we arrived at the spectacular Lepogo Lodges. The torrential downpour of the night before had subsided, and the sunshine illuminated the landscape. 

We ticked off one of the big five just as we made our way across the 48,000-hectare reserve to Noka camp; two cheeky teenage lions were lazing around in the grass. It then occurred to me that, after spending hours agonising over the perfect safari outfits, I was breaking a cardinal rule: “don’t wear bright colours that will stand out to the animals.” I was sitting across from two lions dressed as a pink highlighter in my colourful travel outfit. 

A coeliac concern

After almost 24 hours of travelling, our chic beige jeep finally pulled up at the camp, but I wouldn’t be getting a lie-in to recover. Before now, I thought that sunrise yoga at the Shard or the post-5 K sunrise on Tower Bridge were the makings of the perfect morning. Now I know that a truly perfect morning actually starts much earlier. At 5:30 am the following morning, we were handed a freshly made cappuccino as the sun rose over the Palala River.

From the moment we arrived at Noka Camp, everything was catered for. We were greeted with a freshly made watermelon bellini and tucked into decadent spreads as part of a mid-game drive pit stop. 

I am coeliac, so one of the priorities on my long list of worries (aside from getting eaten by a lion or bitten by a snake), was whether I could eat safely, but Lepogo Lodges couldn’t have been more accommodating.

They even went the extra mile – our room (which had incredible, sprawling views of the reserve) was restocked every day with all our favourite drinks, from sparkling wine to Appletizer. 

Fears laid to rest

I’m going to be completely honest with you. Despite signing a waiver that excused the lodge of all wrongdoing should you be the subject of a rhino charge or wildlife encounter that came a bit too close, it hadn’t really sunk in that that might be a possibility. 

That is until I was standing face to face with a rhino. It was golden hour and he turned his horn towards me and flared his nostrils. He, of course, did not charge, and I later made my peace with him when we later encountered him with his family. But the payoff couldn’t have been more rewarding; seeing the tears in my partner’s eyes when he saw a rhino up close was utter magic. 

Ride solo

One of my biggest learnings from the trip is the importance of booking somewhere that offers private game drives. Our knowledgeable guide, Dylan, was our designated driver for the duration of our stay, meaning our time exploring the Lapalala reserve was incredibly personalised. 

My partner has a penchant for fishing, so Dylan made sure to include that in our trip. The added benefit of riding solo was that the moment we saw the animals, we weren’t dodging heads in a packed-out car.

It also meant that when Dylan was showing us the quiet magic of the reserve – from the tiny Carlima flower (the dew of which is antibacterial and can be used as eye drops), to the anti-malarial bark of the Fever Tree – there was not a detail we missed.

Research is key

Doing your research when choosing a safari is vital; wilderness reserves are very different to game reserves. The latter were described to me as simply “outside zoos”, where wilderness reserves like Lapalala are more focused on conservation and wilderness preservation. 

For example, Lepalala has the very first vet dedicated to the endangered pangolin, as well as a non-profit school which nurtures budding conservationists. 

Time to reflect

After pushing myself out of my comfort zone on safari, we decamped to Cape Town, to Palm House, a boutique hotel situated 15 mins from the city centre. Back in an urban setting, it also allowed us to get a taste of the dining scene that Cape Town is renowned for, with a superb five-course tasting menu at fine dining restaurant de Tafel. 

Our post-safari, pre-flight final hours were spent lazing by the pool, enjoying a massage at the Acai spa and reflecting on all that we had experienced during our time on safari. 

A distinct contrast to the off-the-grid days, it was a stunning city escape and the perfect way to end our trip. 

How to do it

Villas at Lepogo Lodges cost from £851pp all-inclusive. Rooms at Palm House Boutique cost from £342 per night.