It was late March 2024. The ski season was coming to an end and for the first time in many years it looked like weâd missed the window for a family ski trip. Half term was too expensive, the Christmas holidays were too busy and now the Easter holidays were approaching. It felt tempting to risk the hot weather and squeeze in a week in the mountains, but was it sensible? Was mid April just too late for a ski break?
I started researching. My younger son and I were really itching to hit the slopes this year, but we needed a resort that was open and snow-sure in the late season. Somewhere new, exciting, that we hadnât explored before, and somewhere that would meet both of our ski needs (large ski domain and snow parks)? Our research led us to Les Trois Vallees.Â
Sticking a pin in the centre of the Three Valleys, it was decided. Our destination was MĂ©ribel. MĂ©ribel, I learned after a bit of research, was founded as a resort in 1938 by Scotsman Peter Lindsay. Originally known as Mussillon, it was renamed MĂ©ribel to be more palatable to the British tongue. Peterâs son David is still heavily involved in the area, managing a masterclass experience at the Ecole du Ski Français (ESF) ski school amongst other ventures. One of the key original decisions that was taken as this destination started to become developed, and enforced in later years, is the strict building code, meaning this is truly one of the most beautiful resorts in Europe. If this is your first experience of the Alps it will live up to all your preconceptions of what an idyllic Alpine resort should look like.
Itâs very easy to reach. We opted to take a civilised early evening flight to LyonâSaint-ExupĂ©ry â no early morning weariness for us. On arrival, the airport was quiet, allowing us to find our transfer with ease. And actually, having seen the impressive architecture of the connected train station I would certainly consider taking the train to Moutiers in future. Arriving at Hotel MĂ©ribel-Mottrat at 1750m we were just in time to enjoy a fondue in the hotel restaurant before making our way to our room on the second floor. We immediately took to the balcony to soak up our view. To the north we could see the whole mountain face was green with the first signs of spring â a glimpse into the dual life and beauty the Alps offers and an enticement to return in the summer to enjoy the cycling, walking and warmer mountain air. Even with the green mountains, there was still plenty of skiing to be had on the other side of the resort. But luckily for us, less than 24 hours later everything changed, when fate would decide the season wasnât quite over blessing us with a massive dump of snow, instantly transforming both our balcony view and our fortunes on the slopes.Â
The food in the resort was also impresive. Having enjoyed our continental and cooked breakfast at the hotel each morning, we rarely required a large lunch but we enjoyed crepes from Restaurant La Vieille CrĂȘperie and pizzas from Pizzeria du Mottaret, both in the hub of Mottaret. The Pizzeria staff have hats on hand to lend to unsuspecting Brits to save us from the intense sun in the middle of the day. They must have served a lot of pizzas to British lobster faces.
A French friend who had been coming to Mottaret for 30 years recommended drinks at Restaurant CĂŽte Brune to soak up the view whilst waiting for any stragglers to catch up. If I was travelling without my 15 year old son, I would have visited the Folie Douce for more than a soft drink or The Rond Point â or âRonniesâ as it is affectionately known â a popular apres-ski hotspot. And for those seeking more than pizza and crepes I suggest booking early to get a seat at the Michelin-starred Ekrin restaurant.Â
In the evening we would relax with a swim in the hotel pool followed by a sauna. Then after dinner in the restaurant which was themed each night, we would retire to the lively bar for some pool and board games. Rinse and repeat for 5 days and our view from our balcony had started to transform again back to green. It was finally time to let the summer season begin.Â
The season in Mottaret generally runs from the second week in December until the second last week of April. This year it will be 7th December 2024 â 21st April 2025.Â
It feels like a risk to book a late ski holiday but in our experience, itâs got a lot to offer. Less people, not so cold,and some great skiing. Weâre hooked, and will be returning this year to show the rest of the family what they missed out on. I canât wait.
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