Whenever I think of travelling, it is never a solo endeavour. I canât imagine not wanting to share my memories with someone else and take comfort in the safety blanket of another person if I find myself getting too much in my head.
I consider myself fairly well-travelled, having been to America three times and various European hotspots, yet despite this, Iâve never actually travelled north of the border into Scotland. For the most part, northern England is a foreign place for me, although my time in Durham, during which I did trek up to Hadrianâs Wall, was a sight to behold.
So perhaps this is why Scotland appealed to me as a destination for my first-ever solo trip. While being entirely new to me, it also wasnât worlds away. And when it came to my hotel, I could not have chosen better.
The Cairndale Hotel and Spa is in Dumfries, just 25 miles from the border. And while it may appear humble on the outside, the adults-only spa is just the spot to stay at.
Location
While Dumfries might not be the most interesting part of Scotland compared to Glasgow or Edinburgh (one local told me there was ânothing to doâ in the surrounding area), it is certainly picturesque.
Trains from Carlisle might only run once an hour, but the station itself is one of the most well-kept buildings Iâve been through. Flowers bloomed despite the late autumn weather, and it felt straight out of an old-fashioned picture book.
The hotel itself was only a 10-minute walk from the station alongside a busy main road.
Once youâre inside, the Cairndale explodes into life with a colourful entry hall and restaurants off to either side. Staff are more than happy to greet you with the traditional Scottish generosity, and I found myself making small talk and chatting a lot more than usual. At this point, some of these people probably know more about me than my acquaintances at home!
Rooms
At its heart, the Cairndale Hotel & Spa is a three-star hotel, but that doesnât mean theyâve skimped on the rooms. Even though my spacious double bed was just above street level by the aforementioned busy road, the noise levels were low.
The bed itself was my cocoon, and despite the cold autumnal weather, I felt suitably warm and comfortable wrapped under the sheets when the dark nights rolled in.
It was the bathroom I really fell in love with, however. Thanks to my busy London life, Iâm usually a shower-and-go kind of person, but when Iâm on holiday with time to spare, I can soak in the tub â and it was a seriously indulgent experience.
Food
In the interest of transparency, the food was probably my least favourite part of the holiday. Although that is not to say that it was bad. The steak meal and the fish and chips I enjoyed in the hotelâs in-house restaurant, The Lounge, were delightful and fully hit the spot. The ginger cake was also a triumph, although too much of it proved to be a bit sickly sweet, and I would recommend sharing this dessert instead of tackling it by yourself.
The atmosphere inside was quiet and peaceful, and after spending a day at the spa (more on that later), it was easy to keep that relaxation going. Staff were also incredibly friendly, and the service was without fault.
Likewise, I wouldnât dare to fault the service that always came with a smile and a polite bit of chit-chat at the Spa CafĂ©. But it was here that I felt something lacking, and this was down to the afternoon tea. While the sandwiches and scones were really nice, I found the desserts a little uninspiring.
Perhaps Iâm used to London, where everything fizzes and bangs, but I did feel it was a little basic, especially compared to the quality on show everywhere else in the hotel. However, their tea selection was absolutely exquisite, particularly the jasmine tea.
Spa
The highlight of my trip to the Cairndale Hotel & Spa was, of course, its spa. I doubt many people are going to claim that Dumfries is the spa capital of the world, but this one location would be able to give justification.
The venue is adults-only and boasts a wide range of treatments and rooms, as well as its Instagram-worthy dĂ©cor. I always put my phone away when I go to a spa to release myself from the stresses of the world, but I wouldnât have minded grabbing a few snaps and videos.
Alongside your standard saunas and steam rooms is a large pool perfect for hydrotherapy. Whether using its unique water blades and jets or just swimming up and down, I could have stayed here for a whole week.
The hot tub is right next to the pool, and I have never relaxed like this in a hot tub. As someone with a terrible back, being able to recline into its curves really helped ease into the relaxation. Just watch yourself when getting in!Â
The indoor pool is in a heated section, alongside the hot tub, certain treatment rooms, and saunas, but outside in a cooler part are the water beds, which were so easy to fall asleep on.
My favourite part had to be the herbal steam room. My scent of the day was lavender; however, these are always changing, and when the indoor section started to fill up, or I wanted a quieter break to read my book, this was just the place to relax. With a soothing aroma and swinging wooden chair, I lost hours flicking through my pages and achieving inner bliss.
Despite the spa being next to a busy main road, it was easy to picture myself out in the country. At no point during my stay was any part of my relaxation interrupted by the blasting of car horns; I was in my own world. Even when I was in a relaxation room away from the main spa, this illusion was perfectly maintained.
The treatments were also on another level. My massage hit every spot; I didnât know what to expect from the Himalayan rock treatment, but I felt so relaxed and wished I never had to get off the table. Plus, as someone with a tonne of knots in my back, the heat really helped pick out each and every one. I left that room feeling like a new man!
But the highlight of the treatments had to be my mud rasul. I had never had a mud treatment, and now I want one every day. Although this is traditionally a coupleâs treatment, the solitude was the perfect space to be with my thoughts and think about every aspect that I enjoyed of my stay. The mud felt like putting sunscreen on, though it was a huge relief to see that it washed perfectly off my white trunks.
I donât always pay too much attention to my skin, but I really noticed the difference after I left. My skin had never looked better, and I felt like I was glowing.
Final Thoughts
My first solo trip has to be written down as a success. The quaint hotel, and especially the spa, was a hidden gem of luxury. While the locals might claim thereâs nothing to do in the town, with a spa like that, who cares? I didnât want to do anything else except relax inside its walls.
Single rooms at the Cairndale Hotel & Spa start at ÂŁ120 per night. Find out more at Booking.com.
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