I’m open to plenty of aesthetic treatments: Botox, skin boosters, lasers. Filler, however, is something I’ve consciously avoided – especially in my lips. The big, pillowy look I kept seeing on social media was the opposite of what I wanted. But, despite knowing better than to let a filter sway me, I asked ChatGPT for a little virtual lip-tweaking. And let’s just say, my curiosity was piqued. I began asking aesthetic practitioners and fellow beauty editors about lip filler, and was surprised to discover how many of my colleagues had tried it. Looking at them, I’d never have guessed.
Recently, I’ve noticed my top lip looking thinner, with an uneven outline. My Cupid’s bow has all but disappeared, too. “Like the rest of our face, our lips change as we age. We gradually lose some of the collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid that help give younger lips their structure, hydration and softness. The lips can become thinner and flatter, the border can appear less defined, and the Cupid’s bow can become less pronounced,” says Angela Andrews, independent nurse prescriber and owner of Sculpt Medical.
I regularly overdraw my lips with lip liner to make them look fuller and more symmetrical. But could there be a longer-lasting way to restore that definition? “For women in their 30s, 40s and beyond, lip filler often isn’t about wanting noticeably bigger lips,” explains Angela. “We’re not necessarily trying to create a different lip; we’re subtly replacing some of the structure and softness that has changed over time.”
It’s about shape, not just size
My wish list is fairly modest: a more defined Cupid’s bow, a more even outline and a little of the fullness I used to have. I’m not after a completely different pair of lips. “Depending on the individual, we can improve definition and shape, restore lost volume, enhance the Cupid’s bow, define the lip border, improve symmetry and give the lips a smoother, more hydrated appearance,” says Angela. But it’s not just the lips themselves that need assessing. Emma Wedgwood, advanced nurse practitioner and medical director of Wedgwood Medical, explains that the upper lip can appear to lengthen with age, while the surrounding face changes too. “The whole facial architecture shifts too, which is why I look at lips as part of the wider face, not just how much volume to add.” For me, the question is what would suit my face now.
Start small – and know when to stop
My biggest concern? Going in for a subtle tweak and coming out looking decidedly less subtle. Both experts favour a gradual approach, with my own anatomy setting the brief. “I’m a big believer in starting conservatively, particularly with somebody having filler for the first time,” says Angela. “We can always add a little more once everything has settled, whereas trying to achieve too much in one appointment can compromise a natural result.”
Emma considers the relationship between the upper and lower lip, the Cupid’s bow and the surrounding anatomy. There’s no universal formula: age, ethnicity and individual proportions all matter. “Lips should still move naturally and feel like lips,” she says. That sounds like a fairly sensible requirement to me.
The consultation matters as much as the treatment
As a beauty editor, I’m comfortable asking questions. And this is an appointment where I’d want to ask plenty. Qualifications, specific training in injectables and experience with lip filler should all be on the list, says Emma. Lip anatomy is complex, so understanding its blood vessels is essential. I’d also want to know which product was being recommended, why it suited me, how much was proposed and what was realistically achievable. Then there’s downtime, aftercare and who I could contact if I was worried afterwards.
“A good consultation shouldn’t just be about what you want injected,” says Angela. “Your practitioner should take a medical history, assess your face and lips properly, discuss the risks and benefits and be comfortable telling you when treatment isn’t appropriate.” Emma’s advice is equally clear: “You should leave your consultation informed, not pressured, and comfortable with the plan before proceeding.”
What happened at my appointment?
Full disclosure: I was absolutely bricking it. For all my research, a little voice in my head kept asking: “What am I doing?” Thankfully, Angela put me completely at ease. This is where the consultation really earns its keep. There needs to be room to ask questions, discuss your expectations and decide whether you actually want to go ahead. As Emma puts it: “You should leave your consultation informed, not pressured, and comfortable with the plan before proceeding.”
I was nervous, but I was sure. With our plan agreed, Angela marked out my lip shape, focusing on the small adjustments we’d discussed. Her chosen product was STYLAGE Special Lips by VIVACY, a hyaluronic acid filler designed for the lips and the area around the mouth. “I particularly like this product when I want a soft, natural result because it integrates beautifully into the tissue while allowing the lips to retain natural movement,” she explains.
Next came the numbing cream, which, rather perversely, made me more nervous. There was something about the unfamiliar sensation that I found unsettling, even though its purpose was to make the injections more comfortable. The needle was tiny and, while a few moments felt uncomfortable and a little spicy, I wouldn’t describe it as painful. After injecting approximately 0.4 ml at various points, Angela gently massaged my lips to help the product settle smoothly and evenly within the tissue.
My first look in the mirror
Immediately afterwards, my lips were red, with a little bruising, and looked bigger than I wanted the finished result to be. I’d been warned to expect swelling, but knowing that beforehand and seeing it on your own face are two different things. “However, lips often look fuller at first; that’s the product and the body’s initial response, not the final result,” explains Emma. She says most swelling settles within days, although the final shape can take longer to emerge. Angela reviews her patients once everything has settled, before deciding whether any more filler would be beneficial. “A little filler can actually go a long way; it’s never about using an entire syringe simply because it’s there, but using the amount that is appropriate for that individual lip and knowing when to stop.” For a first-time treatment, particularly in naturally thinner lips, she often aims for around 0.5ml and builds gradually if more volume is wanted. “I much prefer to establish shape and structure slowly rather than add too much product at once.”
A tweak still comes with risks
However small the change, this is still a medical procedure. The possible complications deserve as much attention as the potential benefits. Emma explains that risks include infection and persistent nodules. Very rarely, vascular occlusion can compromise the blood supply and, in severe cases, cause tissue or visual damage. “This is why I always stress that lip filler is a medical procedure, not simply a beauty treatment; it requires sound anatomical knowledge and a clear complications protocol.”
She recommends asking how complications would be managed and whether the practitioner has access to hyaluronidase, an enzyme that can dissolve hyaluronic acid filler when needed. I’d also want to leave knowing what required urgent help. Emma identifies severe or worsening pain, unusual discolouration, rapid swelling or any change in vision as warning signs requiring urgent medical attention.
How long will it last?
This isn’t a permanent change. Emma gives a guide of four to 12 months, depending on the product, amount used and individual metabolism. “I don’t encourage patients to top up on a fixed schedule; I prefer to review and treat only if it’s genuinely needed.”
Final verdict
On the way home from the appointment, I kept catching sight of myself in the rearview mirror and, hand on heart, I had no regrets. Even through the swelling, I could see the potential. The next day, the bruising was more noticeable, but there was no soreness. A few days later, I went to a work event with glossy lips and a little extra swagger.
I hadn’t expected such a small amount of filler to make such a difference. My lips have more definition, but it’s the effect on my lower face that has really surprised me. A tiny lift on the right side of my lips has made everything look more balanced and a little less ‘wonky’. And yes, I’m rather enjoying the extra pout. I can see how tempting it would be to keep chasing a little more volume, but this feels like my sweet spot. My lips still look like mine, just with a better outline and a little more oomph. My only regret? I wish I’d done it sooner.
Prices for lip filler start from £180 for 0.5ml, £230 for 1ml.
Read the full article here
