The under-the-radar beach break popular with celebrities that won’t break the bank

With Dua Lipa flaunting body-beautiful bikini snaps from her recent holiday, TOWIE filming their recent series here in June, and Mykonos’ Nammos soon to open an outpost, it’s fair to say that Albania is attracting more celebrities than ever.

This under-the-radar country opposite Greece’s Corfu might be roughly the size of Wales, but it’s the perfect alternative – especially if you want to laze on shimmering gold beaches washed by turquoise waters, party hard in ritzy seaside towns, wander ancient sites or get off the beaten track in lost-in-the-past villages. 

It’s packed with things to see and do, too and with direct flights from London, Birmingham, Manchester, Edinburgh and Liverpool it’s never been easier to get there. Here’s how to get ahead of the pack and visit this budget-friendly hotspot – before everyone else does.

Fun nightlife with a fraction of the budget

More than half of the country’s 2.7 million inhabitants live in Tirana, so it’s a surprisingly lively city. I’ve visited numerous times and always stay at Xheko Imperial. It was built to look like a royal palace, so it’s all vintage wood, hip artwork and silky marble inside. Best of all, it’s ridiculously budget-friendly: plush rooms cost around £103 per night, which is about five times less than you’d spend for a similar hotel in other European countries.

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Alternatively, follow pop royalty (including Dua) to The Crown, a century-old bijou beauty where the sister of King Zog of Albania once lived. Both are close to the Blloku district, once a forbidden zone to everyone except Communist Party elites. Today, this is the place to find cool nightlife venues like retro-styled Radio Bar, and hip and happening Nouvelle Vague. It’s also where you’ll find fab indie boutiques like Perla, and Pirro. My top tip? If – like me –  you love a bargain, follow locals to lively Medreseja Market (Rruga 5 Maji 24

Stay, eat or play in a bunker

Fans of dark tourism won’t want to miss a trip to see some of the country’s 750,000 bunkers that were built during tyrant Enver Hoxha’s almost 50-year regime. It’s not as if you can miss them: these mounds as small as igloos or as big as five-storey buildings are everywhere. In Tirana, Bunk’Art 1, and even creepier Bunk’Art 2, are packed with photos and artefacts showing daily life under Hoxha. 

© Heidi Fuller-Love

For something less harrowing, head for 1940s-themed Bunker 1944 bistro bar or make a beeline for seaside resort Saranda’s War Bunker Hostel. It’s dorm-style accommodation with a few private rooms, so don’t expect luxury, but the thrill of being able to say you slept in a Cold War bunker definitely outweighs the horror of a hard mattresses.

Seek out traditional villages

The cobbled streets of gloriously pretty Krujë, an hour from Tirana, is where you’ll find the best silver filigree jewellery, and those colourful handwoven qilim woollen rugs for which Albania is famed. Meanwhile, Unesco-heritage town Berat, known as the City of a Thousand Windows because of its snow-white Ottoman houses stacked like dominoes along a steep hillside, is the best place for picture-perfect photos. Come here to marvel at castles, churches, mosques and museums, and feed on local treats. My favourite is tavë kosi (lamb and yoghurt) and is best enjoyed while listening to local music at cosy taverna Zgara Zaloshnja. 

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With its old bazaar, hilltop fortress and Cold War tunnels, Berat’s Unesco-heritage sister, Gjirokastër, is equally spectacular. Be sure to try local speciality qifqi (rice and herb fritters) at Taverna Kardhashi (Rruga Bule Naipi, Dunavat 1).

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How to enjoy the Albanian Riviera

Stretching from Vlorë in the north to Ksamil in south, the Albanian Riviera is one long swathe of powder-fine sand lapped by striking turquoise waters. Whether you stay at beachside Drymades Inn Resort – where the cast of TOWIE stayed while filming here in June – or follow Dua Lipa further south to exclusive adults-only private peninsula self-catering resort Kep Merli, beautiful beaches are two a penny here. 

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Dubbed the Maldives of Europe because of its white sands and vivid blue waters surrounded by tiny islands, Ksamil is one of the Riviera’s loveliest beaches. Dhermi, with its upscale clubs (including TOWIE favourite Havana Beach Club), is one of the liveliest. If you’re like Dua Lipa and prefer a more laid-back vibe head for Nazar Beach in Palasë.

My favourite way to stay

These are Albania’s version of guesthouses, but most of them are luxurious and offer great value. My favourite is Mrizi i Zanave which has a droolworthy farm-to-table restaurant and sits near Laguna e Patokut – a coastal lagoon that’s home to endangered Dalmatian pelicans. Fans of nature will also love Bujtina Kapinova where you stay in alpine-style wooden chalets grouped around a pretty infinity pool that’s backed by the dramatically scenic Mount Tomorr National Park.

Why you should always opt for a guide

Car hire is cheap in Albania (you can get a small car for around £10 per day), but if you don’t fancy driving on Albania’s narrow (and sometimes scary) roads, it’s worth booking a multi-day tour with Inside Balkan, a local tour company owned by knowledgeable and friendly guide, Eri. This way, you’ll get all the insider information. 

© Heidi Fuller-Love