I spent the most magical winter with my teens in Lapland and here’s what happened

Travelling with teenagers can be a delicate dance. They want adventure, independence and experiences that feel genuinely cool, while I still crave moments that bring us together. Lapland, it turns out, delivers both in the most quietly spectacular way.

From the moment we checked into our Aurora Cabin Family glass igloo at Apukka Resort, I knew this trip was going to be something special. 

Designed to comfortably sleep up to six, our spacious igloo sat right on the edge of the lake and river, with snow-draped trees framing the view. Inside, roaring log fires kept us cosy, while the glass ceiling stretched above our heads, offering uninterrupted views of the Arctic sky. 

That first night, wrapped in blankets and hot chocolates in hand, my family lay watching for the Northern Lights. Even my teens, usually surgically attached to their phones, were completely transfixed.

© Appuka Resort

Mornings began slowly and deliciously at Restaurant Aitta, where breakfast is served from 7.30am to 10.30am. The buffet was extensive without being overwhelming. Eggs cooked to order, fresh fruit, homemade breads still warm from the oven, chia puddings, and a generous spread of cheeses and meats meant everyone found something they loved. It set the tone for days that were equal parts indulgent and invigorating.

One of the most thoughtful touches of the stay was the winter clothing pick-up for our entire visit. Thick thermal suits, boots, gloves and balaclavas were all provided, which meant we didn’t have to stress about packing or purchasing specialised Arctic gear. It allowed us to fully lean into the experience without distraction.

© Darrin James

By late morning on our first full day, we were out on snowmobiles, gliding across frozen landscapes that felt lifted straight from a storybook. The snowmobiling and ice fishing experience was exhilarating without being intimidating, even for first-timers. There was something deeply grounding about drilling through thick ice and dropping a line into the still, dark water below, surrounded by silence and snow.

© Darrin James

The following day unfolded at a gentler pace. After breakfast, we enjoyed free time at the resort, which my teens loved. They explored snowy trails, warmed up by fires and took full advantage of the sense of freedom that comes with being somewhere so safe and self-contained. In the afternoon, we bundled up again for a reindeer ride through the Magic Forest. 

© Darrin James

Wrapped in blankets as the sleigh glided quietly through snow-laden trees, it felt wonderfully timeless. The journey to meet Santa was handled with just the right amount of theatre, magical enough to charm teenagers without tipping into kitsch.

© Darrin James

We stepped inside to bake cookies together, our mittens dusted with flour, while the smell of something sweet filled the air. There was time to sit, write letters to loved ones back home and simply slow down. The attention to detail was extraordinary, from the tiny furnishings to the stories shared, and it created a sense of intimacy and wonder that felt genuinely magical, even for teenagers who are usually hard to impress.

© Darrin James

Food became one of the great anchors of our stay, and one evening we experienced the Apukka Dinner Experience: Route to the Arctic Ocean, hosted at Restaurant Aitta. Surrounded by the restaurant’s beautiful 100-year-old timber log walls, the atmosphere alone felt steeped in history. 

The four-course menu celebrated traditional Lappish cuisine, showcasing the very best ingredients from the Arctic Ocean and surrounding forests. Each course told a story, rich, warming and deeply connected to the land, and it felt like a journey through Finnish culture told through flavour. Sitting there as a family, candles flickering and snow falling softly outside, it was one of those meals that lingers long after the plates are cleared.

© Appuka Resort

Another standout evening was dinner at Restaurant Kota, where we experienced the authentic flavours of the North in a completely different setting. The three-course dinner is served inside a traditional wooden teepee-style building, with a fire burning at its centre. As smoke gently perfumed the air and flames crackled, we shared beautifully prepared dishes that felt rustic yet refined. There was something deeply grounding about sitting together in that circular space, wrapped in warmth, listening to the fire and enjoying food that felt honest and nourishing.

© Instagram

Sunday offered a change of scenery with a free day to explore Rovaniemi, thanks to the Cultural Pass provided by the resort. We wandered through the Arktikum, where Arctic history and science come together in a beautifully designed space that feels both educational and immersive. At Korundi, contemporary exhibitions sparked thoughtful conversations with my teens, while Pilke brought sustainability and forestry to life in an engaging, hands-on way.

That evening, we boarded the snowtrain to the Northern Lights camp. From 8.30pm to late, we journeyed deep into the wilderness, far from artificial light. Standing around a fire, grilling sizzling sausages and sipping on fruit tea, scanning the sky together, we were rewarded with soft waves of green dancing overhead. It was one of those rare family moments where no one speaks because no one wants to break the spell.

On our final full day, we took the shuttle to Santa Claus Village, a place that manages to feel festive rather than commercial, even for older children. Wandering across the Arctic Circle line, sending postcards stamped from Santa’s official post office and soaking up the atmosphere felt like a joyful full-circle moment for all of us.

© Darrin James

We ended the trip exactly as it deserved, with a lakeside sauna and Arctic bath back at the resort. Stepping from the intense heat of the sauna into icy water is a shock in the best possible way, leaving you exhilarated, laughing and completely alive. Watching my teens embrace it with such enthusiasm was a reminder of how travel can gently push us all beyond our comfort zones.

Lapland is often marketed as a destination for young children, but experiencing it with teenagers was nothing short of magical. It gave us adventure, stillness, wonder and genuine connection, wrapped up in one unforgettable winter escape. Long after the snow has melted, I know this is a trip we’ll be talking about for years to come.

Fact file: The best time to see the Northern lights and enjoy the snow is actually March! The weather is warmer and the skies are clearer so you can get more visibility and better chances to catch the stunning light show.