From bra’s out to bright bohemian

New York kicked off proceedings, London marched in with a seriously triumphant season, and now Milan is taking its final bow on SS27, and frankly, we’re going to need a lie-down.

It was a raucous season from start to finish, with Glenn Marten’s final show as creative director of Diesel and onlookers planted in the crowd passionately snogging and head-banging throughout.

The parties were plentiful, of course – from Vogue World’s post-runway events attended by the likes of Cardi B and Gigi Hadid, to Hogan’s 40th anniversary – celebrated with the unveiling of a special edition Hogan Cool sneaker. 

And on the runway, it was a season to remember. From Prada’s decidedly skirt-heavy affair (63 of them to be precise), to Gucci’s new-season vision and a whole lot of colour, texture and embellishment in between, SS27 proved that minimalism has officially been given the day off. Praise be. 

After a couple of seasons of major creative debuts, Milan felt less like an introduction this time around, and more like designers really settling into their new homes.

So what are we taking away? Legs out, for starters. Skirts are having a serious moment, silhouettes are getting clever and embellishment is back with a vengeance. 

There was plenty of polish, but  little precociousness  – the clothes that strutted down the runway felt thoroughly appropriate for real life. 

And so, Milan has spoken, and our spring wardrobes were listening intently. Here are the SS27 trends you’ll want to know about now – before everyone else does… 

Milan Fashion Week SS27 Trend Report:

Electric Leopard

The leopard print of SS27 is a serious party animal (get it?!) Roberto Cavalli showcased a collection rippling with its usual codes of hedonism and colour – with animal print splashed loudly throughout. Dolce & Gabbana followed suit with zingy gold and plenty of embellishment, and even Fendi got in on the action with two zebra print baguette bags swinging down the runway in bright, beaded citrus shades.

Soft Tailoring

Gone are the sharp lines of a super-slick silhouette when it comes to suiting. We’ve been given the green light to relax a little – blazers are rumpled, shirts are untucked and ironing is still very much on the back burner (fingers crossed that trend really sticks around.) As spotted at Tod’s, Jil Sander and Giorgio Armani. The latter’s last show under the helm of Silvana Armani, with Dario Vitale set to take creative control of the family brand. 

Skirt Alert

Post the Prada show, the H! Fashion team literally gasped at the beauty of every single skirt that strutted down the runway. Eschewing trousers altogether, Miuccia declared freedom for legs come spring/summer 27, with all 63 models wearing a beautiful skirt. Whether perfectly pleated or intricately embellished – we would happily wear every single one. 

Elegant Fringing

Fringing for SS27 isn’t heavy or cumbersome, but lighter than air and worn with ease, as spotted at Bottega Veneta and Fendi. That is if you could peel your eyes away from supermodel Kendall Jenner on the runway and her beau Jacob Elordi perched on the front row at the former. Louise Trotter’s third collection for the Italian fashion house was rapturously received, with its delicate floral moments and the expanded use of the house’s signature intrecciato detailing. 

Mob Wife 2.0

When it comes to a Denma collection, we think it’s fair to say that you never quite know what you’re in for. For the Gucci show, the Georgian designer went full spectacle mode. Whoever was in charge of casting needs a hefty raise, as the runway was stuffed with of modelling elite – Anok Yai, Elsa Hosk, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Alex Consani, the list goes on – and the front row comprised of icon after icon (Keke Palmer! Bianca Jagger!) Our favourite takeaway? The hulking great furry coats, teamed with itsy-bitsy minis, breathing new life into the Mob Wife aesthetic that just won’t quit. 

Bras Out

Good news for the exhibitionists among us, bra are fully approved as tops in their own right, according to Fendi and Prada. Whether teamed with a demure pencil skirt or something that borders on nightwear, bras and bralets took centre stage. Sure, this should make getting dressed an absolute breeze right?

Bright Bohemian

Boho takes a sunny turn for SS27, with floaty silhouettes and paisley print leaning towards sugary shades and playful silhouettes. Frankly, we’d wear the whole lot frolicking. Blumarine showcased playful shapes that leaned less heavily on the Y2K codes of previous seasons, while Etro’s signature bohemian aesthetic looked brighter and zingier for SS27, thanks to the presence of pailettes and plenty of pastels.